Topic Guide
What Is Free solo climbing?
Free solo climbing is a subject covered in depth across 1 podcast episode in our database. Below you'll find key concepts, expert insights, and the top episodes to listen to — all distilled from hours of conversation by leading experts.
Key Concepts in Free solo climbing
Climbing-specific grip strength
This concept differentiates the unique grip demands of climbing from general grip strength measured by devices like dynamometers. Honnold explains that climbers develop strength specific to holding small edges, torquing fingers into cracks, and lifting body weight, which doesn't necessarily translate to high scores on a standard grip test.
Crack climbing technique
This technique involves inserting fingers (or other body parts) into rock cracks and then torquing them to create friction and hold. Honnold details how this practice leads to wider fingers and enlarged connective tissue, and while effective, it inherently causes pain due to the crushing force on bones.
What Experts Say About Free solo climbing
- 1.Despite popular perception, free solo climber Alex Honnold states he does not possess the world's greatest grip strength, asserting that climbers develop only the specific strength needed for their activities.
- 2.A standard grip strength dynamometer does not accurately measure climbing-specific grip strength, as it doesn't simulate the unique ways climbers engage their hands and fingers.
- 3.Alex Honnold's grip strength scores on a dynamometer (e.g., 62, 63) were comparable to, and in some instances lower than, the host's (e.g., 50.5, 63), challenging the assumption that elite climbers excel in all forms of grip measurement.
- 4.Climbing-specific training involves exercises like lifting substantial weight (e.g., 135 lbs) from small edges (20mm) on a hang board, which is a more relevant measure than a dynamometer reading.
- 5.Crack climbing involves torquing fingers into narrow spaces, which physically alters connective tissue, leading to wider fingers and significant hand abuse.
- 6.Even with excellent technique, crack climbing, while sometimes feeling safe and comfortable, inherently causes pain because it involves "crushing your bones into a crack."